Time for Kering’s king to consider a step back 24 Apr 2024 François-Henri Pinault, heir to the family fortune, has been at the helm of the 40 bln euro French luxury conglomerate for nearly 20 years. With returns shrinking and as flagship brand Gucci struggles, Kering may benefit from fresh blood – and possibly a new CEO.
ESG is ghost at global retailers’ annual feast 19 Apr 2024 LVMH, Amazon and peers gathered in Paris for the industry’s yearly shindig. The growth areas in the $30 trln sector are Shein-style cheap garments and the Middle East. Both jar with retailers’ previous focus on environmental, social and governance factors.
Luxury’s great divide will get more striking 17 Apr 2024 Sales at $420 bln LVMH rose a dull 3% in the first quarter. The Tiffany-to-Dior behemoth’s insipid performance points to a broader fragility within the sector. With revenue in the luxury industry flattening, the gap between winners and losers is set to grow wider.
Rabanne-owner IPO offers a scent of prestige 9 Apr 2024 Perfumes-to-skincare conglomerate Puig wants to list in Madrid. At a discount to beauty giants L’Oréal and Estée Lauder, the Spanish group may be worth $18 bln. European markets remain fragile, but premium fragrances’ rising appeal may turn the listing into a rare bright spot.
Beauty boom is busted 4 Apr 2024 Ulta Beauty’s stock plummeted 15% after the $21 bln makeup company’s CEO said lipstick-wearers had less money to put towards their routines. The industry’s M&A trend suggests the glam business can’t stay attractive forever – it has succumbed to a typical cycle like everyone else.
A Dr Martens sale may cause multiple blisters 4 Apr 2024 An investor thinks the struggling $1 bln UK bootmaker could sell itself. Low valuations may woo buyers, but a bid is unlikely to make up for a 75% share slide since the group’s IPO. A rushed exit may also dampen top investor Permira’s effort to list sneaker brand Golden Goose.
Shein’s fast fashion comes with fast-finance risks 28 Mar 2024 Influencers and US shoppers love the online retailer, but the one product that’s not yet for sale is the company’s shares. If all goes very right, a $200 bln valuation in a mooted IPO isn’t unthinkable. Yet Shein’s business model may shift as quickly as its cut-price clothing.
Hermès lawsuit attacks luxury’s FOMO premium 26 Mar 2024 A suit against the $274 bln fashion house claims it’s so hard to buy a Birkin, it’s illegal, alleging the handbag’s must-have aura lets the company force purchases of unwanted extras. If successful, it could crimp both Hermès’ top growth areas and ultra-luxe goods’ mystique.
British M&A refuseniks are playing a risky game 25 Mar 2024 Insurer Direct Line and retailer Currys both rebuffed offers that came with 40% premiums. One possible rationalisation is that a huge UK stock-market discount invites cheeky bids that require knocking back. But certain British stocks may also not merit greater generosity.
European private equity IPO door is only half open 22 Mar 2024 Buyout firms tested the market with cautious pricing for two beauty companies’ listings. Although Galderma performed, Douglas’s debt pile spooked investors. For sellers sitting on $3 trln of unsold assets the message is clear: discounts work, but only for healthy businesses.
Deeper Gucci woes test new CEO’s luxury touch 20 Mar 2024 Sales at Kering’s top brand are falling fast. An unproven designer, China weakness and a volatile client base are behind the group’s discount valuation. With M&A limiting hopes of buybacks, Gucci boss Jean-François Palus has a harder task convincing investors to stay the course.
Unilever’s sweet exit comes with sour aftertaste 19 Mar 2024 The $126 bln consumer giant is splitting off its unit that makes Cornetto ice cream. Doing so cuts exposure to food, and may boost sales growth. But Unilever investors are bearing the costs of the split, and their company remains big in the edible version of stranded assets.
Reckitt slump offers a cue to slim down 18 Mar 2024 The $41 bln Lysol maker’s shares fell sharply after it lost a US court case. One option for Reckitt Benckiser is to separate the nutrition arm, focus of the legal woes. That would ease the hit to the rest of the group, but also leave a new arm that may yet be worth something.
JD gives China bargain hunters glimmer of hope 7 Mar 2024 The $36 bln retailer improved quarterly sales and profitability and is boosting dividends and buybacks. It's nothing spectacular, but JD's beaten-down shares rallied 16%. Amid geopolitics, China's economic woes and rock-bottom valuations, getting back to basics can pay off.
Cosmetics IPO application calls for a steady hand 4 Mar 2024 Buyout firm CVC is braving uncertain markets to list retailer Douglas, possibly for 7 bln euros. Shoppers’ appetite for premium makeup despite inflation is a positive sign. Yet the group’s high leverage and competition from Sephora call for a valuation discount to US rival Ulta.
Elliott has limited ammo in UK retail bidding war 4 Mar 2024 The US investment group’s latest $951 mln offer for retailer Currys could have yielded an adequate return. But the target has rejected it. Hiking the offer looks tricky given the ropey UK economy, reduced scope for leverage, and potential rival bidder JD.com’s deep pockets.
Capital Calls: Airline recovery, AMS Osram 29 Feb 2024 Concise views on global finance: A travel boom lifted 2023 operating profit at the $10 bln parent of British Airways and Iberia above its pre-pandemic level; shares in the sensor company, a supplier of Apple, fell 43% after the group cancelled a major micro-LED project.
Stephen King ghost-writes trustbusting bestseller 27 Feb 2024 The US FTC is suing to block the $25 bln merger of grocers Kroger and Albertsons partly because of perceived harm to union labor. It resembles, oddly enough, a winning DOJ lawsuit over Penguin’s deal to buy Simon & Schuster. The case has a good shot at becoming a horror classic.
Alibaba is the ultimate contrarian China bet 21 Feb 2024 The $188 bln e-commerce group was once emblematic of the country’s growth and tech innovation. But over-expansion, regulatory crackdowns, and slowing consumption are forcing CEO Eddie Wu to perform a hard reset. Winning back investors requires Beijing to correct course too.
Walmart buys TV portal to nowhere 20 Feb 2024 The $484 bln retailer is buying smart-TV maker Vizio for $2.3 bln. It’s a tiny gamble on the possibility the operating system eventually captures individual viewing habits and beefs up ad capabilities. But given Walmart’s M&A track record, chances are, it’s still a waste.